Samsung Refrigerator is Leaking Water into Crisper Drawers - How to Fix
This guide is designed for many Samsung French Door refrigerators. The most common models this applies for are RF22 - RF32 refrigerators.
Pictured: a typical Samsung French Door Refrigerator with in-door water & ice.
Tools Needed to Repair:
- Phillips Head Screwdriver
- Garment Steamer or Water Bottle to Flush Drain Line
- (Optional) - Flat Bladed Screwdriver
Products Suggested for Repair:
- DA82-01415A Moisture Kit
OR - DA97-04049E Drain Tube Set
Step #1: Remove all items from Refrigerator
The panel you will need to access to troubleshoot the system draining is behind the plastic evaporator panel in the refrigerator. This will require you to remove all items from the Fresh Food compartment on shelving in your refrigerator. The orientation of the shelving will vary. Store items in a cooler while you work on the refrigerator.
Step #2: Remove Shelving from Refrigerator
Most shelving can be removed by holding the rear of the metal shelf supports and lifting directly up, then towards the front of the refrigerator.
In some models, there may be a pivoting shelf attached to the ice maker housing. Depending on evaporator panel orientation, you may need to remove the shelf and bracket fully, or simply pivot the shelf away from the evaporator assembly.
Optional / Variations: Crisper Drawer Assembly / Chef's Pantry
Depending on the format/orientation of your refrigerator, the crisper drawer and/or Chefs Pantry assembly may need to be removed. The evaporator panel should have exposed screws at the top and bottom for removal, but the bottom ones may be covered by the rear of the crisper drawer assembly.
To remove the crisper drawer or Chef's Pantry assembly, you can lift the drawers up and out of the housings, similarly to the shelving. The assemblies will be held in typically at the rear portions, and will lift up and out as well.
Some variations may include a water filter in the middle of the drawer assembly. In those cases, the housing will usually feature tabs on the sides of the filter housings, towards the front of the assembly. Press the tabs in, then lift the assembly up. This may reveal wire harnesses, screws, or other media that may need to be removed as well, and this will vary by model.
Step #3: Remove Evaporator Panel
To remove the evaporator panel, there will be a hidden screw directly above the center metal shelf bracket. Use a small flat-bladed screwdriver or phillips head screwdriver to pry it forward and off.
Next, use the Phillips Head screwdrivers to remove the 2 to 4 screws holding the panel in place.
To remove the panel, grab from the sides and gently pull forward. It will have retaining tabs that will pop out from the sides that hold it in place.
Often though, the panel will not remove due to being waterlogged or frozen in place. If you had a garment steamer for the repair, you can steam the small holes located in the panel for 3-6 minutes to de-ice the assembly. Alternatively, you can run the "Forced Defrost" command on your refrigerator, and this step will vary from model to model, depending on style. This may also de-ice the panel to allow for easier removal.
Once the panel is successfully removed, note that multiple wire harnesses will be attached to the rear of the panel. Often, there are 1 or 2 wire clusters located on the top left and top right side of the evaporator panel, depending on model. The retainer tabs will need to be carefully depressed to remove the wires.
Step #4: Inspect & Flush the Evaporator Drain Hole
Often, the cause of the issue of leaking is an ice or derbis blockage within the drain hole at the bottom of the drain pan, located at the bottom of the silver evaporator coils. The blockage is deep enough to not be seen in most usual circumstances.
To remove/unthaw, use a garment steamer to inject hot steam into the tube, or if unavailable, circulate warm water into the hole until water can freely flush down the drain. A small, effective DIY tool could be a water bottle with a straw pierced through the cap which can allow for force to be applied to the water flush by squeezing the bottle.
Flushing the drain tube can take 1 - 5 minutes, but the key is ensuring water fully cycles out of the tube to the back of the refrigerator into a catch pan. You may need towels around the hole to catch water as it cycles into and out of the frozen hole.
Step #5: Install Moisture Kit
The DA82-01415A Moisture Kit contains a metal drain clip that will clip onto the metal defrost heater that will extend the defrost heating cycle into the drain tube, preventing the ice buildup. Additionally the kit contains 3x pieces of foam that will need assembled on the backside of the metal drain pan. Its best to add the foam first, then the drain clip to help channel the water properly.
Step #6: Inspect Evaporator Panel
During removal, in some cases, the evaporator panel styrofoam may of been damaged. If this happens, the missing foam may be glued back in if possible.
Additionally, due to the water/moisture leakage issue, the styrofoam insulation may have been compromised & waterlogged. If this is the case, you can attempt to dry it out for 24hrs. However, this is not guaranteed to work, and often technicians and Samsung will advise you to purchase a replacement evaporator panel with new insulation, sensors, and fan.
Step #7: Re-Assemble Evaporator Panel
To re-install the panel, first re-install the wire harnesses that were removed when the panel was taken off. Then press the panel tightly into place. The retainer tabs on the side should pop into place. The panel should be very flush with the cabinet with little or no gap around the sides. Often this is not done perfectly and you may have to press around the edges of the sides of the panel gently.
Step #8: Re-Install Shelving & Food
Finally on the inside of the refrigerator, install the shelving as desired. If the water filter/housing was removed or displaced, it will need reinstalled along with the harnesses. It should pop into place using the tabs as guidance for locking it in properly.
Step #9: Move Refrigerator to Inspecting Drain Tubes
The next phase of the repair is to inspect and ensure the drain tubes work properly. To do this, the refrigerator will need pulled out from its space for you to access the rear of the refrigerator. Prevent scrapes and scuffs on your floor by placing a plastic moving mat below the refrigerator before moving it.
Step #10 Remove screws from Rear Panel
At the bottom of the refrigerator, there will be 8-10 Phillips Head screws that will need removed from the refrigerator. Once these are removed, lift the metal panel assembly up and out of the way.
Step #11 - Inspect, Clean or Replace Drain Tubes
Two to three drain tubes will be located on the rear assembly. The two closest to the middle of the refrigerator will be the freezer and refrigerator tubes. Remove them and inspect the insides of the top of the tubes. Often minerals, derbis, and other objects can clog them. In other cases, the plastic and/or silicone will degrade causing debris generation. Replace as needed.
Step #12 - Re-Assemble Rear Panel
To re-assemble the panel, often there will be small metal protrusions sticking out from the bottom of the refrigerator chassis. This will allow you to hold the panel in place while re-installing the screws to the rear casing of the refrigerator.